Beginning as a child with embellishments to the costumes of his
sister’s dolls, the American sculptor Alexander Calder (1898-1976)
created more than 1,800 pieces of jewelry. Best known for his invention
of the mobile, Calder also produced these precious ornaments throughout
his lifetime—for his wife, family, artists, friends—and as a more
intimate dimension of his monumental art. The personal nature of his
jewelry, and the inspiration it drew from sources ranging from the
primitive to the modern, provide insight into Calder’s life and art.
The exhibition, in the Perelman Building, consists of some 100
necklaces, bracelets, pins, earrings, and tiaras.
The metalwork from numerous ancient cultures significantly
influenced Alexander Calder. He was attracted to the directness of
ancient processes and loved the simplicity of their forms.
“When a mobile by Alexander Calder is seen packed in a crate, it is a
flat, lifeless object,” notes exhibition curator Mark Rosenthal in the
catalogue that accompanies the exhibition. “Picked up by its highest
element, all of the components take their assigned positions, and the
mobile will become animated, three-dimensional, and imbued with motion.
A necklace by Calder lives in the same way—inside and outside a crate.
The only real difference between the two is that the structure of the
mobile, with its rigid metal spokes, creates the breadth of the work of
art, whereas the necklace usually depends on the body of the wearer to
expand from a static state to fullness. Both works are of a piece and
cut from the same cloth of activity.”
“Making jewelry was very personal for him, and each piece
exists as a unique work,” adds Calder Foundation Chairman and Director
Alexander S. C. Rower, the artist’s grandson. “Some of his gifts for
his crowd (of friends) are included here: a brass wire ring enclosing a
tri-colored fragment of porcelain for Joan Miró, a gold “P” initial
brooch for his wife, Pilar, and a silver brooch of her name for their
daughter, Dolores; for Jeanne and Luis Bunuel, a gigantic flower brooch
(with shards of colored glass and mirror for petals).” For Calder’s
jewelry, the wearer becomes significant both as context and structural
support, and the exhibition will be punctuated by enlarged images of
people wearing the jewelry, including Calder’s wife, Louisa James.
Other well-known women adorned by Calder, including Georgia O’Keeffe
and Peggy Guggenheim, also suggest the jewelry’s popularity over the
years.
Catalogue: Calder Jewelry is accompanied by a
companion book published by the Calder Foundation. Published by Yale
University Press, it contains newly commissioned, full-color
photographs by Maria Robledo, a frequent contributor to
The New York Times and
Town & Country.
The book is edited by Alexander S. C. Rower and Holton Rower, with
essays by Mark Rosenthal and Jane Adlin that discuss the relationship
of these objects to the artist’s other endeavors and the objects’
relation to the history of jewelry. The catalogue is available in the
Museum Store ($65 hardcover; $50 softcover) or by calling 800-329-4856
or online at: www.philamuseum.org.
Organizer: This exhibition is co-organized by the Norton Museum of Art, West Palm Beach, Florida, and the Calder Foundation, New York.
Calder Jewelry
is a collaboration between Alexander S.C. Rower, Chairman and Director
of the Calder Foundation, and Mark Rosenthal, Adjunct Curator of
Contemporary Art to the Norton Museum of Art.
Curator: Elisabeth Agro, The Nancy M. McNeil Associate Curator of American Modern and Contemporary Crafts and Decorative Arts
Location: The Ruth and Raymond G. Perelman Building, Exhibition Gallery
Itinerary: Norton Museum of Art: February 23, 2008 – June 18, 2008.
Philadelphia Museum of Art: July 12, 2008 – November 2, 2008.
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York: December 8, 2008 – March 1, 2009.
Irish Museum of Modern Art, Dublin: March 31, 2009 – June 22, 2009.
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